A Three Day Trip without a Destination

The trip was inspired by one of my uni buddies insisting on taking a break to get out of Colombo with zero planning.

By the end of the 3 days we had covered over 900 kms and the following places

1. Maha Saman Devalaya in Ratnapura
2. Rathganga Asu Maha Shrawaka Pasvisu Rajamaha Viharaya – Punchi Dambadiva
3. Katu Kithul Ella
4. Hal Ella
5. Dehana Ella ()
6. Madanagiri Ella Falls (Mohini Ella) (possibly ? )
7. Alupola Ella
8. Beruwatta Ella
9. Dodam Gallena Ella
10. Galtamyaya Archaeological Site
11. Kalthota Duwili Ella
12. Buduruwagala
13. Buddama Ancient Temple
14. Jayanthi Wewa Hot Springs
15. Senanayake Samudraya / Inginiyagala
16. Owagiriya Archaeological Site
17. Namal Oya Wewa
18. Mahiyanganaya Raja Maha Viharaya
19. Ancient Stone Sluice of Sorabora Wewa
20. Dambana Vedda village
21. Maha Oya Hot Springs
22. Maduru Oya Dam and ancient stone sluice

Since the report is long I have not given much additional details of each site but provided links regarding each site where you can obtain more details and GPS locations.

.

Day 1

We started out at 4 AM on day 1 and move towards Ratnapura on Horana Road. On the way we schemed to move towards Ampara and may be towards Trinco later on.

We took a quick breakfast from a small wayside shop on the Horana road at about 6.

We had passed Maha Saman Devalaya at Ratnapura so many times but never stopped since we always have been running with a another destination in mind. It was 6.45AM when we reached the Ratnapura Maha Saman Devalaya and there was almost no people there.

The original Maha Saman Devalaya was destroyed by the Portuguese when they invaded Ratnapura and built a Fort and a church on this ground around 1618-1620.

Later the King Keerthi Sri Rajasinghe of Kandyan Kingdom re captured Ratnapura, destroyed the church and the Fort and built the Maha Saman Devalaya again. Luckily the Dutch decided to build their fort at a higher elevation, where the Ratnapura Police Station stands today.

A panoramic view of the Ratnapura Fort

The Buddha Image house

The Buddha Image house

The old stupa with brick pillars of probably a watadage

Restored paintings inside the Devale.

Next we decided to take the Wewelwatte Road to Balangoda (B39)  instead of taking the main road. Since this was a waterfall route, and it was raining the previous night, this proved to be a good choice.

The road is being expanded and lot of construction work is being carried on the road. When we reached the notice board for Rathganga Asu Maha Shrawaka Pasvisu Viharaya we decided to have look at it. So we turned back and took the road towards the temple.

This road too proved to be scenic with views of the Peak Wilderness Sanctuary. With the sun just rising the views were fantastic. On the way we passed 2 large waterfalls visible on the slopes of the Sanctuary. One was identified as Koonissan Ella by a villager.

View of Peak Wilderness

Koonissan Ella

We reached the temple around 8.45 am and spent about 40 minutes going through the replicas of Dambadiva monuments.

.

.

.

.

Rathganga Asu Maha Shrawaka Pasvisu Viharaya

Rathganga Asu Maha Shrawaka Pasvisu Viharaya

We returned on to the same route and continued on the Wewelwatte Road. We passed Katukithul Ella, Hal Ella and Dehana Ella on the road. All three waterfalls lie right next to the road.

The 2 forks of Hal Ella

Hal Ella

The 73 meter high Dehana Ella

The 73 meter high Dehana Ella

On the way we also passed a cascading stream which looked quite interesting. My guess is that this is the Madanagiri Ella Falls (Mohini Ella).  Upon closer inspection we also discovered what could be illegal gem pit. Inspecting the maps, the Pandioya Ella Falls should be lying 150 meters upstream from this fall. Both these falls have been listed a height of 68m and 45m in LCWF but these are much smaller. If the information in LCWF is correct , my guess would be wrong.

Madanagiri Ella Falls (Mohini Ella) ??

what could be a gem pit

From Wewelwatte town we took a left turn and travelled 2.5 km to reach the Alupola  Ella. It was about 11 AM when we reached the waterfall.

This road segment is not so bad and a car can easily travel up to the waterfall. On the way you will see a grand view of Beruwatta Ella on the other mountain range. But actually finding this waterfall is another challenge.

.

.

The 68 meter high Alupola Ella

Turning back on the same road, we came to the Wewalwatte junction and continued towards Balangoda. Next destination was Beruwatte Ella.

This waterfall lies less than 100 meters away from the road but so well hidden 2 years ago I spent over 45 minutes going up and down the road trying to find the waterfall.

I had already memorized the landmark last year so I didn’t allow it to elude me this time. The waterfall is accessed through an almost hidden foot path near a small house (store?). You cannot hear the sound of gushing water even at this point. You need to walk along this foot/rock path for few hundred meters ( may be 200) to reach the bottom of this 50 meter fall. It was about 12 PM now.

Beruwatta Ella

Route to the fall

Passing Beruwatta Ella we passed an unnamed cascade and then reached Dodamgallena Ella. The Dodamgallena Ella lies in middle of a paddy field popping out of nowhere.

Unfortunately the view of the fall is spoilt with some hi-tension power lines and we did not have time to get down to the waterfall which would have taken about 1 hour.  It was 1.15 by the time we reached this fall.

.

.

The unnamed cascade

Dodamgallena Ella seen from the Wewelwatte – Balangoda Road.

Dodamgallena Ella seen from the Wewelwatte – Balangoda Road.

We continued on this road to reach Balangoda and had some lunch. While having lunch we considered the options available to us decided to take the B38 road towards Kalthota.

We left Balangoda around 2 PM and travelled along B38 until we reached sign post towards Galtemyaya Archaeological Ruins. This site lies 1.25 km passing the turn off to Kuragala.

After taking this by lane for 500m, we reached the gates to find the first disappointment of the day. 4 people who were at the site came to us and informed that no photographs were allowed. It was rather disappointing and we inquired the reason for it. The only reason they could give us was that it’s the instructions they had received from the Archaeological Department. They were quite nice and I believe that they thought we were some reporters. If we had taken time to have a chat with them I am sure they would have let us take few pictures.

But my friend was quite annoyed with the fact there wasn’t even a notice board saying “no photos” advised them to put up at least sign board. Anyway we didn’t have much time for arguments and we had a look around the site and drove towards Kaltota Ella.

We reached the Dowili Ella at Kaltotal at around 3.30 PM and climbed down the 350 steps to the viewing point. There is an Rs 20 ticket you need to buy at the entrance. After gorging ourselves with the misty Dowili Falls, we walked towards to top of the waterfall to see the upper Dowili Ella ( Kuda Duwili Ella) falling over rock formations caused by millions of years of erosion.

We finally left the falls at 4.20 PM

Kalthoda Duwili Ella

Kalthoda Duwili Ella

Kalthoda Duwili Ella

Kalthoda Duwili Ella

With time running out We decided to find some accommodation around Tissa / Kirinda area. Just before reaching Tanamalwila town, we saw a food outlet which looked reasonably well maintained. So we made a stop and inquired about food and also accommodation options available around this area. They informed that they have some wooden lodges further inside the road and took us to show the lodges.

We travelled on a gravel / clay road for about 900 meters in to the jungle. After rains on the previous day, the car started to have a mind of its own sliding side to side and came to the entrance which was blocked by an electric fence.

The lodges were very well done so we discussed the prices (1500 per person – lodging only) and settled down for the day.

We were told that this was a 40 acre land and the teak plantation along with the lodge is protected by an electric fence.

Next day we had walk along the electric fence and found a place which it has been breached and some elephant dung on the inside of the fence.

Our home for 1st night – Sanilka Estate – Thanamalwila

Early morning view from the lodge

Walk along the electric fence

Early Morning at the lodge

Elephant Dung inside the premises

During the night we looked at the options for day 2 which included a visit to Lunugam Vehera Park, Ampara or  Badulla. Without a consensus we slept for the day and finally decided to move towards Mahiyangana next day.

Day 2

After enjoying the dawn at the new found site, we left around 8 AM and had a good rice breakfast at a small shop on the Wellawaya Road.

Next destination was Buduruwagala. We reached the site around 9.30 and stopped at the Buduruwagala Tank. We spent about 1/2 hour enjoying the serenity of the lake and took to the road very reluctantly.

Buduruwagala

Buduruwagala

Buduruwagala

Carvings of Buduruwagala

Carvings of Buduruwagala

Buduruwagala Reservoir

Our plan was to take the Inginiyagala road and it looked as we had to reach at least Bibile to find some accommodation. So our plan was to reach Mahiyanagana by night or at least Bibile. With the distance to cover, this day was going to be more of a road trip rather than visiting sites.

We drove trough Wellawaya, Buttala, Monaragala and Siyambalanduwa. Based on a  tip given by Ashan G. we turned towards Buddama Raja Maha Viharaya after travelling about 15km on the Siyambalanduwa – Ampara Road. The temple cannot be missed with a fairly large billboard indicating the turn off to the Temple.

Buddama Rajamaha Viharaya is an ancient cave temple going back to 3rd century BC – 1st century. Number of drip ledge caves can be seen scattered around the temple grounds. The main cave temple was closed and after speaking with the head priest, an older gentleman came with us to show us the Vihara Ge. A large reclining Buddha Statue belonging to the Kandyan Era fills the cave with walls and rock roof filled with Kandyan Era art. The chest of the Buddha statue has been vandalized by treasure hunters and according to the old gentleman two people who were involved in the treasure hunt has died mysteriously.

According to the same person the ancient temple has been located on the top of the Buddama Hela and there are about 30-40 drip ledge caves on the hill. The temple has been moved to the bottom of the hill during the Kandyan Kingdom to ease access to the villagers.

One of the main highlights of the temple is the ancient Weli Peella, where letter writing was taught on a sandy surface.

.

.

The main Image House

The main Image House

Inside the main Image House

Inside the main Image House

Inside the main Image House

Inside the main Image House

Inside the main Image House

Inside the main Image House

Many caves of Buddama

Many caves of Buddama

Many caves of Buddama

The details of the Inscription – Click Image to Enlarge

The rare Weli Peella at Buddhama RMV

We left the temple around 1.30 PM and had lunch at a small shop at Wadinagala Junction. From there we took the Pallanoya Road (B350) up to Jayanthi Wewa. This is about 3 km from the Wadinagala Junction. We stopped at a boutique and asked about the Hot Spring which is supposed to be in the area.

No one seems to know of the spring and one guy proudly proclaimed that he is from this area and no such thing exist. Not giving up we turned back and came towards the Bund road (of Jayanthi Wewa) which was just after a bridge. After asking around a little we finally found a person who knew of the well and asked us to take the Jayanthi Wewa Bund road.

We took this road and still couldn’t find it. Finally after wandering about for a while we managed to locate this elusive spring in a private land.

The Jayanthi Wewa Hot Spring

The Jayanthi Wewa Hot Spring

After travelling about 80 meters on the Bunt road you will come to this junction. The road no 1 ends in a house. Walk along the road 2 for about 20-30 meters and the Hot Well lie in the backyard of the house on the road no 1.

We left the hot well at about 3 PM and the next destination was the Senanayake Samudraya at Inginiyagala. First we stopped at the Fisheries Habour and then went on to the dam of the Senanayake Samudraya with excellent view of Inginiyagala Mountain.

We looked at the possibility of taking boat ride but the cost was Rs 5000 + Rs 500 per person. And it was around 3.30 they were not even sure if they could do a trip even if we paid.

So forgoing the boat trip, we enjoyed some time on the dam, we took off in search of Owagiriya Archaeological site.

Senanayake Samudraya and Inginiyagala

Senanayake Samudraya

Senanayake Samudraya

.

.

Senanayake Samudraya and Inginiyagala

Senanayake Samudraya and Inginiyagala

Owagiriya Archeological site lies about 3.2 kms from Inginiyagala on the turn off to Namal Oya Road (B527). I had read about in one of Ashan’s posts earlier and it was not difficult to find.

Ovagiriya ruins are dated back to the 5th century or before. Most of the ruins  at Ovagiriya at the time of discovery  had been destroyed by the operation of tractors of the Gal Oya Development scheme. Ruins of a stupa, an image house, capital of stone pillars, guard stones, Korawak gal (Balustrades),  flat clay tiles used for roofing, etc. are scattered over an area of 7-8 acres.

Having learned the lesson at Galtamyaya, I left my camera and took only the phone with me. After having a chat with the guys there we went around the site and took some photos with the phone. Unfortunately it was cloudy and they didnt come out so well. But still it was better than not having some photos of the site.

Ruins of Owagiriya Archaeological Site

Ruins of Owagiriya Archaeological Site

Ruins of Owagiriya Archaeological Site

Ruins of Owagiriya Archaeological Site

Ruins of Owagiriya Archaeological Site

Ruins of Owagiriya Archaeological Site

We took a short break at the Namal Oya Reservoir which provided another breath taking view. By 6.30 we were at Bibile and took a decision to spend the night there rather than trying to reach Mahiyangana.

Bibile didn’t offer much choice of accommodation. One guest house which looked reasonably good had all 15 rooms booked. The owner informed us that generally all the rooms get booked by evening. By contrast, the next best option we found was empty other than for the two of us.

Namal Oya Reservoir

Namal Oya Reservoir

Namal Oya Reservoir

Namal Oya Reservoir

Namal Oya Reservoir

Day 3

Day 3 was the return trip. After contemplating we decided to take the Mahiyangana – Maha Oya – Maduru Oya – Polonnaruwa Road to reach home.

Having a long drive back home, we left our hotel at 6 AM and took the Mahiyangana Road. The first segment of the road is being widened and after few kilometers the road becomes wide and carpeted. The driving on this road was an absolute pleasure with no cops around.

We had a vegetable roti breakfast at Mapakada wewa Junction. After breakfast we found out a tire has had a puncture. We changed the tire and reached Mahiyangana Stupa by 7.30 AM.

After making offerings at Mahiyangana, found a tire repair shop, attended to the punched tire, and went to see the Stone Sluice of Sorabora Wewa.

Mahiyangana Stupa.

Mahiyangana Stupa.

A statue of Maitree Bodhisattva. This seems to be a replica of Dambegoda Bodhisattva statue at Maligawila.

Ancient Moonstone at entrance to the Saman Devalaya

History of Sorabora Wewa – Click Image to Enlarge

A technique unique to Bulatha, to manage water without a Biso Kotuwa. According to legend he built another tank using the same technology which is the only other tank not to use a Biso Kotuwa to manage the waterflow.

.

.

Next stop was Dambana, the veddha village. As soon as we stopped at the car park, we were surrounded by bunch of kids offering us to guide through the village. We strictly said no and walked towards the village and where the house of the headsman was located. It was around 10 AM and there was bus load of kids from a Tamil school talking to the chief.

The questions were being asked in Tamil and guy there translated that to Sinhala and another translator from Vedhha community translated that to their own language. The replies traversed in the reverse path. The kids were probably in grades 6-8 range and we found their questions well articulated quite advanced. They ranged from historic background of the Veddhas, marriage rituals, conflict resolution, land rights, access to education, access to jobs, how they feel about learning in a language which is not their own, impact from the Sinhalese community in maintaining their unique identity etc, etc. Listening to these questions and answers we learned quite a lot just by standing on the side.

Then we moved towards the tomb of Tissahami, the late leader of the Veddhas. The tomb lies about 600 meters in to the Sanctuary. Walking along footpath, you can clearly see that elephants too have used the  same path by their foot prints.

Unfortunately the tomb was covered with bushes and has not being cleaned for some time.

.

.

.	The Tomb of Tissahami Maha Hura

Google maps showed us that the Dambana Road continues passing the Veddha Village go pass Muthugalwela and pass through Maduru Oya NP to connect on to the B502 after the Maduru Oya reservoir. But inquiring from the people around Damabana, we were told that the road ends at Muthugalwela.

We decided not to take a chance since we had to get back home on the same day and came back to the Mahiyangana – Padiyathalawa Road and turned to Mahaoya – Manampitiya Road.

We had a good bath at the Maha Oya Hot Wells and had pot of curd and honey for lunch.  We left the springs at about 12.30 PM and continued on the same road towards Maduru Oya dam which was to be the last stop of our trip.

This is another recently widened road and the driving experience up to dam was an incredible. Driving on kilometers of road lying in a straight line visible up to horizon was a great experience.

Obviously we did not know that permission was needed to enter the Maduru Oya dam area. We found the turn off to the dam and ended up in front of an army gate and we were told the permission from Mahaweli Authority is required to enter.

We had a chat with the guys there who were quite nice and after being convinced that we were okay (?) they allowed us to enter the dam area. We had a nice drive on the dam towards the spill and had a look at the ancient stone sluice way which was discovered when the dam was being re constructed.

Professor Senarath Paranawithana believes that this sluice way was built by King Kutakanna Tissa (42-20 BC).  Carbon dating carried out in USA has also placed the time period to 1st century BC.  But the popular local belief us that the original dam here was built before the arrival of Vijaya by Yaksha Tribes around 6th century BC.

Maduru Oya Dam from the access road

Maduru Oya Reservoir

Maduru Oya Dam

Maduru Oya ancient stone sluice way

Maduru Oya ancient stone sluice way – Click Image to Enlarge

On the road to Aralaganwila

We left Maduru Oya at about 1.30 PM and started driving back home. Only highlights after that was 45 minute traffic jam due to a toppled container at Manampitiya Road, and 1 1/2 hr traffic jam on the Dambulla Road due to a tree fallen across the road.

We finally reached Colombo at about 12.30 AM