VESAK AT TRINCOMALEE 2015

Map Day 1 & 4

Map day 2

Places of interest

• Kanthale ancient Sorouwa
• Welgam wehera
• Thissa Hermitage – Anandakulam
• Ruins around Wilankulama lake
• Fort Frederick
• Koneshwaram kovil
• Dogs grave
• Hoods tower museum
• Boat ride in Trinco bay
• Japanese bombed oil tanks(tank farm)
• War cemetery (WW2)
• Gokanna RMV
• Kanniya hot water wells
• Marble beach
• Sampur – Foul point
• Mahaweli river delta
• Nilaweli beach
• Pigeon island
• Kuchchaweli Pichcha mal viharaya
• Tiriyaya Nagathambarani carving
• Tiriyaya Giri hadu seya
• Arisimale beach
• Kokilai lagoon
• Bakmeegama – Kivulekada Shailabimbaramaya
• Bakmeegama Shiva kovil
• Pahala gama Archeology site
• Surulumahamuniyawa RMV Tri/Medawachchiya
• Unknown site at Tri/Medawachchiya
• Gomarankadawala Ridi kanda
• Ran giri ulpotha
• Wilpalamkulama Dakshinaramaya
• Mora wewa – Gajaba lena
• Mora wewa
• Mora wewa – Kituluthuwa Shakyasinharamaya
• Wilgam wehera – Nelumgama
• Seruwawila RMV
• Pashana pabbatha RMV
• Lankapatuna
• Black beach
• Ruins at Kathiraweli
• Kathiraweli pre historic cemetery
• Verugal kovil
• Kayyankerni ancient rock bridge and ruins
• 58^th mile post Dhageba
• 40^th post Gal kanda mountain range ruins

It was Vesak holidays and i wanted to visit some temples just like i did in 2013. Though I have been to Trinco as a kid I have not properly explored this region. so after some intensive planning with the aid of online and offline literature i was all set for this 2015 Vesak expedition. We knew that this was going to be a tough one especially with the extreme heat but we were up to the task. The added advantage was that every budhdhist temple was decorated for Vesak and it was easy to locate. The disadvantage was that it was too crowded since it was a long holiday.

1 Kanthale Sorouwa

So we left early on and while on the way to Trinco we did have a stop at Kanthale to appreciate the ancient sorouwa right by the side of the road. Since this would be a long report I would stick to the basic details..

Kanthale ancient sorouwwa

Kanthale reservoir

2 Welgam wehera

To reach this historical location we had to take a short cut from A6 to A12 and proceed towards Mora wewa side and take another right hand turn. This site dates back to 2^nd century. The bo tree was once attacked by a mortar and the mortar bomb never explored.

 

Welgam wehera

a restored building

the statue of budhdha

guard stone

the sthupa

dancers seen on the outer wall of the sthupa

3 Kanniya Hot water springs

While reaching back towards Trincomalee one could also visit Kanniya hot water wells and Archaeology reserve. For more info refer this link

4 Tissa hermitage Anandakulama

Just before reaching Trincomalee one would note a unique mountain range and this rocky range harbors some ancient caves. We took the road in front of the provincial educational office which connected to A6. This modified temple is at the end of the lake bund. There are about 3 drip ledge caves close to the current temple but finding those was a challenge.

Anandakulama mountain range

statue on the rock

Anandakulama

cave at anandakulama thissa hermitage

5 Ruins around Vilankulama

From Anandakulama we returned back to A6 and headed towards 6^th mile post where a board saying Vilankulama could be found. There was a pagoda right in front of it on the opposite side of the road and been covered by Teak trees. There was another site close to the bund of the lake and to get to it we had to cross the road side paddy field. The sight of a dug up pagoda just made us feel bad.

Vilankulama

the pagoda which is dug up at Vilankulama lake

6 World War 2 cemetery

Since it was lunch time we decided to head back to Trinco and have lunch. After having lunch we had to ride towards Nilaweli because there were no beach side hotels to accommodate us. On our way we noted the War cemetery right on the side of B424, few Km’s from Trinco. There were many graves belonging to different nationalities. We had to please ourselves by looking over the gate since it was locked.

War cemetery

all who lost their lives

7 Tank farm

After a struggle we did manage to find a reasonable place at Nilaweli beach. Though the surrounding area was crowded it didn’t bother us a bit. After having a small nap we took off towards Trinco. At China bay with a huge bend there was the IOC office where I got permission to visit the Japanese bombed Oil storage tanks. There are about 100 plus tanks and out of these only a hand few is been used. The ride through the forest was very interesting indeed.

Japanese bombed few oil tanks during WW2

bombed tank

inside a tank

used currently by IOC

8 Fort Frederick

We returned back to Trinco and halted our vehicle close to the beach though we could have driven in to the fort. Our main intentions were to enjoy the scenery and architecture of the fort. So the walk towards Koneshwaram was the best option. It is nice to see that many buildings are still in good condition thanks to the military. By the way people need to stay away from the Deer who live freely in its premises.

Fort Fedrick

entrance

plenty of these guys

ancient buildings

9 Dog’s grave

There are few graves close to the car park at Koneshwaram and the interesting thing is some of these belong to dogs.

Dogs grave

zoomed

10 Koneshwaram Kovil

This is thought to be built by Elara. It also has counter parts like Ketheeshwaram and Munneshwaram at the western coast. This been located on the cliff on Trincomalee has a splendid view point. Out of all lovers leap provides a greater v

Koneshwaram kovil

a huge statue

sacred

expecting blessings

the drop

lovers leap point

11 Gokanna RMV

Just before exiting the fort one could note a temple on the right side with a wonderful view towards Back Bay. This is a historically important site. There were ruins of a statue and a Asanagaraya too. For me the wooden carving of the Budhdha was the most fascinating sculpture.
After enjoying a lovely sun set we took off towards Nilaweli and on our way we came across a vegetarian restaurant close to Sri Lakshmi Narana kovil. This place was called Sri Vari Balaji restaurant. And we did pay a visit on the next two nights too. We loved the food at that place.

Gokanna RMV

statue with the asanagaraya

ruins

wooden statue

boats at fishing harbour

dusk

Day two was all about Tiriyaya – Gomarankadawala route. This was going to be along one and most of the places we visited weren’t even in our to-do list. After enjoying a lovely sun rise at Nilaweli we took off towards Kuchchaveli.

12 Pichcha mal viharaya Kuchchaveli

At Kuchchaveli close to the main road there is an interesting archeology site which everyone needs to visit. There are scattered ruins close to the police station and a small museum too. Main site is a small mountain close to the shore where a pagoda could be found on it. Right at the beginning of the stair way there is a fallen rock with a unique carving of 16 pagodas and an inscription.

room view at Nilaweli

wow

here she comes

lovely

and another beauty

on the way to Tiriyayaya

Kuchchaweli historical site

view from the temple

silent shores

the pagoda

very very unique

these were found at this site

13 Nagathambarani – Cobra head carving

Ah the number one attraction of the day. We headed towards Tiriyaya and stopped at 47/1 culvert in front of Dayananda’s house and after having a long chat we took off towards Valathamalay mountain (mountain is seen between 49km and 50km post). After a small climb we did come across the cobra carving. And it was a big wow for us. The adjoining cave had a rocky bed and a concaved carving on its roof so one could easily accommodate his head while meditating. For detailed information refer this report from NG. We left Dayanandas place after saying good bye to Him and his wife. We did promise to visit them in near future too.  (  8°53’30.35″N  80°59’52.57″E)

Valathamalay mountain

guiding us along the ancient pond

the cave and the carving

the goddess??

what a beauty… ah yes this is in the deep forest

lovely

government servants engaged in illegal sand mining at yan oya

kora kaha

Mangroves

Yan oya

14 Arisimale beach

Ah next we took off towards Pulmude and just before Pulmude we took a right turn and reached the navy camp where an archeology site could be found. After a 500m walk we reached this small bay called Arisimale where the sand looks like “samba” rice. My guess is that this unique geographical location must have caused to filter big sand particles in to this bay.

ah here it is

At Arisimale beach

just like samba rice

small bay at arisimale with unique sand

15 Kokilai lagoon

From Pulmude we took the lagoon road and reached the fishing village to have a glimpse of Kokilai bird life.

Fishing village at Kokilai

bird life at Kokilai

where the lagoon opens up to the ocean

at Kokilai

16 Giri hadu seya

This Dhageba was built while Buddha was a live and his “Kesha dathu” is been preserved in this pagoda. This blessed Pagoda was done by Thapassu Balluka merchants. There were two caves, two inscriptions and yes a long rocky bridge. When we were at the summit it was close to 12pm and walking around the pagoda was more of a run. From Tiriyaya we took off towards Gomarankadawala.

Rock bridge at Giri hadu seya

lake at the rocky base

right on the top

main pagoda at giri hadu seya

framed

lovely

the meaning of the main inscription

a cave at giri hadu seya

17 Kiulekada Shailabimbaramaya

From Tiriyaya it was a ride through a forest patch where Elephants roam around in the evenings. At the end of the forest we came across a temple on the right hand side. There were monoliths here and there, a broken statue and a blasted image house by terrorist.

pagoda at Kivulekada Shailabimbaramaya

these were blasted by terrorist

18 Kiulekada Shiva Kovil

In front of the temple there is a road which will take one towards and archeology site. There is an old kovil which is been restored. Also one could find a huge Tamil inscription too.

Shiva kovil inscription Kivulekada

kovil in ruins

19 Pahalagama Archeology site

This site is also right on the side of the road and its few km’s from Kiulekada. There is a pagoda, bodhigaraya & image house which has been excavated.

Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

bodhigara at Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

a statue

image house at Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

20 Surulumahamuniyawa RMV – Trinco/Medawachchiya

Few Km’s from Pahalagama site, one would come across a board to the right. After traveling 1km one could easily reach this temple. There are few restored buildings here. Those are the Bodhi garaya, sthupa, image house and another building. The monk at the temple was kind enough to treat us as he could. This site also is a must visit place.

ruins at Surulumahamuniyawa RMV Tri-Medawachchiya

more ruins

21 Unknown Archaeology site Trinco/Medawachchiya

Few km’s away from Trinco/Medawachchiya there is an archaeology site on the right hand side of the road. There are no houses around this point only a forest patch. We did come across two restored buildings at this site too.

Unknown Archaeology site Trinco-Medawachchiya

restored

22 Gomarankadawala Ridi kanda

One of the main archeology sites in the region. It is said that silver was mined at this point and taken to build Ruwanweli seya by King Dutugemunu. This is a huge archeology site with a museum. There are many caves scattered around the mountain range and one restored pagoda on it. The climb was a difficult one (because of the heat) but yet rewarding. There are few buildings and two pagodas at the base of it too. This is again a must visit place. To reach this place one needs to take the road behind the temple of Gomarankadawala.

Ridi kanda Archeolgy reserve

twin sthupas

image house

one of those caves

up we go

view from ridi kanda

top of ridi kanda

small museum at ridi kanda

23 Gomarankadawala Rangiri ulpotha

This is another interesting archaeology site with a hot water spring. I have been to this site previously and for further information on it please read this.

24 Wilpalamkulama Daksinaramaya

While traveling towards Mora wewa passing Gomarankadawala one would come across this temple where an ancient rock pond, lake and few ruins could be found.

Wilpalamkulama Dakshinaramaya

the lake

25 Gajaba Lena – Mora wewa

Gajaba lena could be reached by taking the mora wewa lake road from the Mora wewa town. The temple is very well built but the caves are covered by tall mana bushes. So if you want to explore the caves be ready to scratch for few days.

Gajaba lena cave complex

kema

more caves at gajaba hermitage

a cave

26 Mora wewa

Mora Wewa Lake was 2km’s away from the temple and we did get permission from the Navy post to visit the lake. It’s not advisable to visit it during the evenings because there are elephants around the lake

mora wewa

the bund

birds nesting at Pan kulam

some pelicans

27 Mora wewa / Weppamkulam/ Kithuluthuwa Shakyasinharamaya

Though the name is a long one it’s a very small temple with few monoliths scattered around a bo tree and it’s found between mora wewa and Kanniya

From here we straight away headed towards Trinco and from there to Nilaweli to end one of the most hectic days in are traveling history. We did manage to visit many places but we were also dehydrated. The beach of Nilaweli was there to our rescue by washing away the tiredness of the day.

board at 162km post

ruins

28 Wilgam wehera – Nelumgama

On day 3 we headed towards Seru nuwara side. We took the Toppur route to Seru nuwara. While traveling to Seru nuwara we came across a name board directing to another Wilgam wehera. It was a 1km ride from the Seru nuwara road but it was well worth it. There was a huge pagoda with few “palu” trees on it. It was nice to see that there were few devotees observing sill for Vesak at this sit.

Sun rise at nilaweli

longest bridge – Kinniya bridge

Wilgam wehera – Nelumgama

close up

29 Seruwawila RMV

One of the most sacred sthupas in the east and worshiped by many Buddhist pilgrims, this site was crowded on that day because it was Vesak. There were many buildings which were excavated and out of them the sthupa, Bodhigaraya & Pond stranded out. Though there was a museum it was closed on that day.

Kapruka pujawa at Seruwawila

majestic

entrance

lovely piece of architecture

well carved

pond at seruwawila

bodhigaraya

a mandapaya

30 Pashana pabbatha RMV

From Seruwawila we reached A15 and from there we headed south until we came to the junction where a board directed us to the left. This road leads up to Lankapatuna and on the way we came across Pashana pabbatha temple. There were many buildings in ruins and on top of the rocky plateau with inscriptions there were remains of a sthupa. This sthupa was vandalized by terrorist and the Terrorist radio broadcasting tower which was built on it is still visible.

ruined pagoda at pashana pabbatha

view from the top

some shelter

Terrorist transmission tower

31 Lankapatuna RMV

It is believed that Princess Hemamala and Prince Dantha landed on the shores of Lankapatuna with the sacred Sri maha Bodhi plant many years ago. Now only few ruins could be found on the rocky peak. A new pagoda is built upon the old one. To reach this temple we had to hire a boat which could accommodate 9. They charge 180/= per trip. If you wish to reach it by vehicle it is advisable to take the Thoppur road.

waiting for a boat

pond at lankapatuna

sthupa at lankapatuna

the statue at Lankapatuna

seruwawila seen from lankapatuna

the new brdige been build

32 Black beach

800m’s away from Lankapatuna and towards the north the beach is black in colour. We did have a small walk to have a look at this unique beach before heading back.

black beach

black it is

33 Verugal Kovila

This ancient kovil is located close to the Verugal aru and one could easily access this road side kovil

Verugal kovil

gods

painted part

i love this one

34 Pagoda at Kathiraweli

Close to 78/4 culvert and between Verugal and Kathiraweli there is a pagoda on a rocky range which is been blasted currently for rocks. It is sad to see and archeology site been vandalized like this. I guess this is a common practice in the east.

Kathiraweli pagoda near 78-4 culvert

vandalized

35 Pre historic grave yard at Kathiraweli

This site could be easily identified by the huge Pandol like entrance. There is isolated rock with two caves and few carved steps at this site.

Kathiraweli pre historic site

drip ledged

36 Kayankerni Ancient stone bridge

Now this is something new and was my main target for the day. Information about this mysterious bridge was first published by Maritime Archeology unit few years back and since then I was seeking for this. It is said to be built across a narrow point of Kayankerni lagoon. The locals believe that this was used by a prince and princes to reach to their school. There is a small archeology site close to it and another huge site 2kms away from it. We were lucky that we had the chance to visit all of them. We reached the Kayankerni Bridge and inquired about this from the police post but they were not aware of it so they called a local boy who was the ideal guy. He straightway asked us weather it was the kings bridge which we seeked for and yes was the answer. So with him we headed north and drove off road towards the lagoon where people catch prawns. From there he took us on a small fishing boat. 5o meters away from where we started paddling were the stone bridge. The slabs which were on it has fallen in to the lagoon and few pillars were even been covered with mangroves. We were so happy that we were able to find this historically important place. After thanking Thushan we headed back towards Trinco (  7°58’45.73″N  81°30’19.29″E)

Kayankerni lagoon

halted at the edge

Kayyankerni stone bridge

still standing tall

remaining pillars

ruin site close to the bridge

idi	ruins found 1km away

37 Fifty eight mile post dhageba(Aradhana seya)

On our way back we were treated well at few Dansals given by the forces and the police stations out of those the manyok dansal took care of our need for lunch. At the 58^th mile post we came across a pagoda with a bo tree on it. The surrounding was very well maintained. There was a beautiful moon stone just like at Anuradhapura. From this pagoda it is easy to spot Seruwawila pagoda over the paddy fields. When we looked back there were few army officers looking at us with a smile on their faces. We were told that they restored the place and opened it on this vesak day and we must have been the first two curious pilgrims to visit and worship the place.

one of those dansel

yummy

58th post dhageba

what a beauty

38 Muttur Gal kanda ruins (40^th mile post)

Close to the 40^th mile post we came across a tall mountain range and there was a lion’s mouth at its base. We were bit curious so we went there and inquired. We were told that there are ruins on top of the mountain but it would be tough to climb since it was very hot. We decided to go ahead because there was a stairway to the summit. This was one of the best outlook points in Trinco.. We could easily see for miles and the bay of Koddiyar was seen clearly too. The main attraction was the pagoda on the summit. We were told that it is been restored in few days. I recommend climbing this hill so you could enjoy the scenery it provides.

Gal kanda range as seen from A15

Muttur galkanda ruins site stairway

what a view

endless scenery

towards koddiyar bay

pagoda on the summit

39 Vesak at Trincomalee

After a small rest at Nilaweli we returned back to Trincomalee to enjoy some Vesak lanterns. There were many lanterns especially around the naval headquarters and the roads were packed with pilgrims who enjoyed the walk. This was indeed a unique Vesak night for us.

navy base lit up

vesak lantern 1

lovely isnt it?

vesak lantern 2

vesak lantern 3

lagoon of trinco on vesak day

40 Sampur – Attempt to visit foul point

On day 3 our main objective was to enjoy a sun rise at marble beach but we were told that its open only at 8am for the public. So we headed towards the fishing bay to enjoy the sun rise. After a brief stop at Mahaweli river estuary we did proceed towards Sampur. But after a difficult ride we were denied to go past one point since the road ran across a camp. So the attempt to reach foul point was not a success. But we did manage to enjoy the scenery towards the bay from the beach.

another sun rise

halted

and the owners of the cycles

where Mahaweli river reaches the ocean

Sampur beach

close to Foul point at sampur

view towards koneshwaram from sampur

Villu kulam

41 Marble beach

When we reached Marble beach it was 8am and already there were 5/6 buses. We did walk around the beach just to feel the calm ocean waves and then decided to head back to Nilaweli.

marble beach entrance

very calm

loved this place

crystal clear

42 Pigeon Island

At Nilaweli we took a boat ride to Pigeon Island, though it was crowded we did manage to have a quick dip. We decided that we should come on another day to spend some time leisurely. So we returned back in half an hour.

on the way to pigeon island

pigeon island

pigeon island jr

main land

welcome

coral beach

the shore of the island

wow

calm and peaceful

marine life

43 Boat ride In Koddiyar bay

Thanks to Amila we had been granted permission to enter the naval base. For 20/= we were offered a boat ride. That boat ride was very educational and we did enjoy every second of it.

boat trip in the bay

coal ship

prima factory

Sober island

anchored

another ship

44 Hoods tower museum

After the Boat ride we headed towards the Hoods tower museum where war artifacts recovered from the terrorist could be found. There was a scenic outlook post at this point too. The tour was an educational one but we had to rush quickly by skipping some sections. They did charge 50/= pp at the entrance.

Hoods tower museum

mini subs

sinker

parts of a boat

view from the hoods tower

the bay

ancient fort

bunkers used during WW2

close up

view towards the ocean

Since it was 2pm we had lunch from Trincomalee and headed towards home sweet home to end one of the best planned Vesak holidays ever in our life. Though it seemed like we did things in a rush it wasn’t. It was just our normal pace when we go on trips. I’m happy I have a partner just like me otherwise I would have missed many places I visited during this visit. Hope this would be a good guide on Trincomalee if you have any queries just inquire… Thanks