Vandalized Heritage around Sagama (Akkareipattu)

Map around Sagama – click to enlarge

Map around Ampara – click to enlarge

Few years back after the war there were some terrifying incidents in the East especially about vandalism of Archaeology sites by local ethnic population. One of those sites was Sagama Pagoda that was bulldozed and destroyed which lit up a big ethnic issue at that time. I thought it would be nice if I could visit this area and try to explore these sites to give the needed awareness. As always the Book of Ellawala Medananda thero was my guide. So me and my wife left towards Pottuvil early as possible to have some breakfast before initiating a hectic adventure.

Sangaman Kanda ruins

Our first stop was at Sangaman kanda where a rocky plateau with a pagoda on top could be found by the side of A4. Though I have been here previously I did miss out on the cave paintings but this time I was lucky to come across the cave with paintings. This cave is located close to the base of the rock with the pagoda (near the main road 7° 1’2.17″N  81°50’55.06″E)

Ureni kalapu

cultivation’s at sangaman kanda

those lagoons of the east

Ladies fingers

komari bridge view

Tsunami Iglus

sangaman kanda pagoda

bricks been washed away

kema	view from the pagoda

a cave inscription

cave paintings

Kanjikudichchi aru caved monastery

From Sangaman kanda we went towards the north where we came across a road directing towards Kanjikudichchi aru. This road led us close to the Kanjikudichchi aru tank and from there we took a 4wd road for about 300m to reach the army camp which once was a terrorist base camp. The camp is located at the base of the bund and on the north there is a huge rock bordering the bund. The rock facing the west has a series of caves with a splendid view. These caves had a grand view towards the west overlooking the tank. So if one could spend an evening at this place he/she could enjoy a lovely sun set over the tank. We did climb up the rock too to have a 360 degree view. There was evidence of bunkers everywhere. You need to get permission from the army camp before exploring the region. This is also believed to be done during the 2^nd B.C

The rock near Kanchikudichchi aru reservoir

lake side facing hotel rooms

drip ledged

inscription

and more

lake view from the cave

kanchikudichchi aru tank

paddy fields been fed by the tank

remains from the past

view towards the west

a pagoda on a near by hill

Unknown site at Sagama (7° 7’7.29″N  81°48’5.20″E)

From Kanjikudichchiaru we returned back to the road and took off towards Thirukkovil and before Thirukkovil we took the Sagama road. Just before reaching Sagama STF camp we came across a huge area bordering the lake which was been marked by department of Archaeology but unfortunately we found only wrecked ruins which was now mere dust.

Archeology site close to the sagama tank

rock quarry in situ

sagama tank

ruins are now mere dust

Gaminithissa monastery Mottagala – Sagama (7° 8’52.65″N  81°48’23.74″E)

This vast monastery complex is found right after one passes the STF camp and the bridge. The complex of rocky plateaus and the hill of Muttuakalu could be seen on the right hand side of the road and surrounded by paddy fields. There was no one to ask directions and the local’s new nothing about the historical significance of this place. There was a pagoda at this site which was bulldozed few years back but we couldn’t locate the remnants of it even. We initially explored the southern plateau and found a cave and a pagoda on top of the rock. Next we decided to climb Muttuakalu rock which is the highest point in Akkareipattu region. To reach all of these locations we had to walk in muddy paddy fields which wasted our time. There is a lovely stairway to climb to the top of Muttuakalu peak and on the right hand side there is a rock pond with a very important inscription close to it.

Quote

“The inscription speaks of a ruler named Upathara Naga Naga, who is a member of the Tenfold Royals of East establishing the monastery for the Sanga of past, present and future, who were present and not present at the occasion”.

If you click on the link provided you would note that there is a carved Buddha image in the vicinity too but we couldn’t locate it. The climb to the top was not easy at all but the splendid scenery towards the Eastern Ocean and greenly paddy fields made us forget about it. Both of us did hang around lying down close to the ancient pagoda for a while before getting down.

Gaminithissa monastery mottagala

ruined pagoda

view from the pagoda

a cave

faded inscription

just below the pagoda and facing the east

these were seen in the nearby pond

Muttuakalu of Mottagala monastery

the pond

inscription speaks of a ruler named Upathara Naga Naga

steps from the pond

steps

view of paddyfields while climbing up

view of the the rest of mottagala monastery

ruined pagoda

plenty of paddy

Periya kalapuwa of Akkareipattu

the ocean seen over periya kalapu

Sagama tank

i explored that part too

lovely pano

Deegamadutu Dhageba (7° 9’26.18″N  81°47’40.00″E)

There was a small 3 way junction on Akkareipattu road while passing Sagama this would take one towards Ambalan oya. Few Km’s along this road one would note a rock surrounded by Palmyra trees. On top of this a ruined pagoda could be found. We did meet some friendly local children who were enjoying the scenery from the top too. From here we headed towards Akkareipattu and on the way we noted few rocky hills which had ruins of Pagodas and been now converted to Kovils which is indeed a sad site.

Deegamadutu dhageba rock plateau

remains of Deegamadutu dhageba

view toward mottagala

view towards thottama

met some freinds

said good bye

kovil built on top of a dhageba

Mullikulammalai Monastary complex (7°16’3.15″N  81°49’17.97″E)

From Akkareipattu we took off towards Oluvil(Palamunai) and then took the concrete road towards Deeghavapi. After few Km’s we took another left turn along a 4Wd tractor road to reach Mullikulammalai. This is an extensive monastery complex where three mountains with caves are grouped together. We got down at a site where the rock has been blasted and later been stopped. As I heard archaeology department surveyed all the Rocky Mountains in Ampara in 2013 to identify important sites and to protect them from Rock quarry guys. There were 3 caves close by on the southern side (at the quarry site) and two caves had vedda paintings. We did note an unusual painting where a young and adult was painted together. Passing the caves we climbed up along the stairway which had a huge inscription on its side. This stairway led us towards a destroyed pagoda. There were many more caves in this mountain and the two adjoining mountains but since time was limited we had to get down.

Mullikulamali monastery – Adalachchenai

vandalized long ago

a cave

caves with vedda paintings

moisture

vedda paintings

another vedda paintings

adult and a child

more paintings

cave view

inscriptions

inscriptions close to the stairway

steps found close to the inscription

ruined pagoda

must have had a building here

the view

note the stairway

what a view from this cave

extension of the monastery

Veddagala (7°15’59.55″N  81°48’57.24″E)

Passing the pond like place where we halted to visit Mullikulammalai and proceeding 100m along the road we noted Veddagala on the left hand side. After a 5 minute walk we reached this unique rocky complex. There is a small carved stairway leading towards it and this place is unique in the sense because two huge boulders are leaning together to form a lovely cave. One of those boulders resembles a true tooth. There was an inscription in very good condition because it was been covered.

Veddagala

steps towards veddagala

wow	like a tooth

cave view

well preserved inscription

Weheragala ruins (7°15’32.28″N  81°45’48.50″E)

From Mullikulammalai we took the Deeghavapi road and passed an ancient Hospital site which is now covered in scrub jungle to end up at Deegavapi archaeology office. We were told that an ancient herbal bath was retrieved from the above mentioned site. Next we went towards Irakkamam and on the way we came across large “thorana” on the left hand side which led us towards ancient temple of Weheragala. The most significant finding was the clear cut stair way leading towards the restored pagoda.

Since it was already 5pm we went towards Ampara to taste a delicious “Moru” drink before heading towards Monaragala.

steps at Weheragala

restored pagoda

image house

Day two was about visiting few sites we missed on the previous visit and both those temples were around Dadayathalawa.

Wijayapura ambalama

From Ampara we took the Kalmune road and after passing Buddangala turn off we took the Dadayathalawa turn off at Malwatta. From Dadayanthalawa we took another road to reach central camp road and somewhere close to the “Moda palama” we came across this ancient ambalama with a “Pinthaliya”

Wijayapura Ambalama

Weheragama- කුබිර තෙරුන්ගේ වනය (7°25’14.63″N 81°42’30.54″E)

Crossing the canal we reached Central camp road and headed towards 10^th colony (you have to take the turn from Sevana plant house). Ask directions from locals and they will guide you to this temple. There are two small rocky plateaus in this temple and one harbors a newly built pagoda on top of the old one. There are many ruins around the temple including the water pond. The most important finding is the inscription mentioning about “Kubira theros hermitage”. It is said that this is the only inscription found in SL of this type. Unfortunately there was no one ask the location of this inscription.

name board

kema

endemic

ruins

new image house

pillar base

ruins

siri patula

new one built on the old

Weheragoda ruins (7°22’47.54″N   81°41’35.12″E)

From here we took off towards Uhana along Central camp road until we came across “Wajiraramaya temple” opposite the temple and the canal lies the road towards Weheragoda. The road leads uphill towards a rocky plate. On top of the rock there is a well maintained temple with many ruins. It has a splendid view towards Buddangala too. The old pagoda and a restored pagoda could be found here. Ruins of an image house also were clearly visible. After hanging around a bit we headed towards Uhana and from there we took off towards Himidurawa

Weheragoda pagoda

image house

towards Buddangala

lovely heritage

old pagoda

been placed perfectly

a chatra stone

statue placed on the asanagaraya

rocky plateau of weheragoda

Himidurawa tank

It is a storage tank of left canal of Senanayake reservoir and a lovely place to have a bath. A one hour bath washed away our tiredness and we decided to head back to end this brief visit.

This is one of those trips which I tried to explore our lost heritage around Digamadulla. I have visited many places according to Medananda theros book and visiting other places mentioned in it would be a tough challenge.

Himidurawa lake

Pallan hela and Wadinagala seen over the tank

Namal oya reservoir

View point at Makada